Hiring a car opens the island up — the far end, the trailheads, the beaches without a bus route. It also requires a local permit and a driving style you may not be used to.
Both are manageable. Neither should be a surprise on the day.
| Side of the road | the left |
|---|---|
| Permit | a local one, usually required |
| Roads | narrow, steep, winding |
| Worth it for | one or two days rather than a week |
The local permit
Visitors generally need a local driving permit in addition to their own licence. It is straightforward:
- Obtained through the car hire company or a police station
- Requires your home licence
- Costs a modest fee
- Valid for a defined period
- Usually issued the same day
Arrange it when you collect the car — the hire company will handle it. Driving without it means driving unlicensed here, which as the material on insurance explains, means your cover may not respond if anything happens.
That is the reason to do it properly rather than the fee itself.
What the roads are like
Be realistic about this before deciding:
- Narrow, frequently with no room for two vehicles to pass comfortably
- Steep — the island is a volcano, and the gradients are real
- Winding, with blind bends constantly
- Often no barrier on the drop side
- Deep drainage channels at the edge, which will take a wheel
- Potholes, variable by road and season
- Pedestrians, dogs and goats using the road
None of it is dangerous with attention. All of it punishes inattention, and it is not a place for confident speed.
How people drive
Understanding the conventions makes it far less stressful:
- The horn is communication, not aggression — a light tap means "I am here", "thank you", or "coming round this bend"
- Buses stop suddenly, anywhere, without warning. Expect it
- People stop to talk to someone through a window. This is normal; wait
- Give way generously on narrow sections — one car reverses, and it is often the one with the easier option
- A hand out of the window means thanks; give one back
The horn convention is the one visitors misread most. A tap on the horn approaching a blind bend is a safety measure, and it is worth adopting rather than just receiving.
Practical points
- A small car is better than a big one, on these roads, always
- Check the spare and the jack before leaving the lot
- Photograph the car at pick-up, all round
- Fill up in town; stations are sparser away from the main areas
- Parking in town is tight — going in by bus is often easier
- Avoid driving at night when you are new to the roads
- Never after drinking, and see the material on rum for why that matters especially here
On night driving: unlit winding roads with steep drops and pedestrians walking on them are a genuinely different proposition after dark, and there is no reason to learn on them.
Is it worth hiring?
An honest assessment:
Worth it if you want the far end of the island, the interior trailheads, beaches with no bus route, or you are travelling with small children or a lot of gear.
Not worth it if you are staying in the main area, happy with buses and taxis, or planning to spend most days on a beach — in which case it sits unused and costs money.
The sensible middle, as set out in the material on planning a week: buses and taxis most days, with a hire car for one or two. That is where the value is.
The alternatives
- Taxis — agree the fare first; drivers will also do a day rate with waiting
- A driver for a day, which is often barely more than hire and includes local knowledge
- Water taxis between coastal points, which can be quicker and much nicer
- Organised tours for the interior, where a guide adds real value
The second is underrated. A driver for the day costs little more than a hire car and you get a knowledgeable local companion instead of a stressful drive — which for the interior is a clearly better deal.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a local permit?
Usually yes, arranged through the hire company or a police station. Driving without it means driving unlicensed, and your insurance may not respond.
What are the roads like?
Narrow, steep and winding with blind bends, deep edge channels and no barriers in places. Fine with attention, unforgiving without it.
Why do drivers use the horn so much?
It is communication, not aggression — a tap means "I am here" or "coming round this bend", and it is worth adopting yourself.
Is hiring a car worth it?
For one or two days rather than a week. A driver for the day costs little more and gives you local knowledge instead of a stressful drive.
